• basic lime wash:  Mask off trim and ceilings.  If you are not going to re-float the walls with joint compound, sand the walls and scrape off raised particles with a blade.  Then prime the walls with premium water-based primer using a low nap roller (foam).  If you re-float the walls and you know that nothing is going to bleed through, you can omit priming.  As walls dry, color lime adding no more tint than 10% of the total volume.  Take into consideration that wet product dries a couple times lighter.  If you are making a deep color you may want to add a little water as tints act as thickeners.  Using a lime brush, apply lime paint with a crosshatched method and feather out brush stokes as you go.  Move steadily across the wall and do not stop until you get to a corner.  Our lime paint brushes are made of the finest bristles available.  Other bristles will dissolve in the lime.  When brushes are new they may shed a few bristles.  Wash brushes with soap and water to minimize this effect.  Use a pointed round brush to apply lime paint around trim, in corners, at ceiling, etc.  After you have completed an entire pass of one coat to the room, wait for lime paint to dry and color of the finish to lighten to the same shade throughout the room.  The second coat is applied using less product and really working the lime into the wall, still feathering out brush strokes as you go.  You can stay with the same color recipe for a subtle look or add a little un-tinted lime paint to make a variation of the color, for a more mottled look.  After the second coat dries you may add as many coats and variations as you desire.  If product thickens anymore, just add a little water.  Wait till the last coat has dried to burnish (polish) the walls.  At this point you are finished unless you wish to burnish or seal.

• burnishing lime paint:  Burnishing will warm up the color of the lime paint, create more mottling and add sheen when viewed at an angle.  Walls will have a beautiful glow to them.  Use a broken in sanding sponge to polish walls.  Follow with a pass of a clean towel.  If you would like more sheen, burnish with the right edge of the burnishing trowel.  Trowel is held at about a 30 degree angle and never flat to the wall.  Move right blade across the wall in one direction.  You should have a minimum of three coats of lime pant before burnishing.  Again, you cannot burnish on textured walls. 

• burnishing adds mottling:  It highlights the textures of the wall.  If you do not sand off unwanted particles in your preparation, burnishing will remove them.  You can use an artists brush and dot the blemishes with your lime paint recipe to help minimize their appearance.  However, lime paint does not cover like paint.

• sealing lime paint:  Follow step 15 of the getting started page to seal with Olivetti stucco sealer.  If project is around water or in heavy traffic area, you should use two coats of sealer.  Lime paint is not recommended in bathrooms and kitchens, unless the areas receiving treatment are well protected from grease and water splashes.

• more texture and less color variation:  Option 1: After priming, skim coat walls.  Sand out any ridges.  Leave mud variations if you want an old world look, or sand them perfectly smooth for a sleek look.  Option 2: Substitute stucco marmorino or Olivetti prep coat  instead of joint compound.  Allow surfaces to dry overnight.  Very lightly sand surfaces with a sanding sponge and clean up corners and edges. Apply two lime paint coats of the same color recipe.  When walls have dried completely, burnish as above. 

• lime paint as a base coat for stucco finishes:  Lime paint is an excellent base coat for stucco finishes.  It provides excellent suction and allows material to glide on evenly.  It can also be tinted to the color of your finish to help you or your client visualize the color before expensive processes begin. 

A beautiful exterior option to paint.  Hydraulic lime repels impurities and allows walls to breathe.  It will not flake. Applied as interior lime, exterior lime paint offers the depth and modeling of traditional European lime washed exteriors.  It can be applied on clean cement, plaster, lime backgrounds, bricks an blocks.  The product comes to you dry and is to be mixed 1 volume of powder to 2 volumes of clean water.  Thorough mixing is essential.  The first coat may be sprayed on.  Product is to be applied using a lime brush, applying material evenly and quickly enough to avoid dry joints from forming.  Unlike the interior lime paint, it is better not to overlap into drying sections.  You can apply as many coats as desired to achieve your look.  We recommend no less than three coats.   Protect walls from rain for five days. 

This top coat adds shine or a film of color (when tinted) over any of the finishes.  Left untinted it will be clear.  Use the same technique as you would to apply grassello.  Apply as many coats as you like before burnishing.

These stones can be any color you like.  They are mixed with the marmorino to add another dimension to the look and color.  

*All recommendations are suggested for use of Olivetti Mineral Finish products only.  We shall not be liable for incidental or consequential damages, directly or indirectly sustained, nor for any loss caused by application of these good not in accordance with current printed instructions or for other than intended use.  Our liability is expressly limited to replacement of defective goods.  Any claim shall be deemed waived unless made in writing to us within 30 days from the date it was or reasonably should have been discovered.

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